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Amy
Ruth’s Homestyle Southern Cuisine
A small,
unpretentious oasis for homestyle Southern cooking, Amy Ruth’s is
the ideal place to visit when you’re hungry for both food and
nostalgia. Founded by restaurateur Carl Redding in 1998 in tribute
to his grandmother, Amy Ruth’s has evolved from a neighborhood
gathering place into one of New York City’s favorite locations for
hearty portions of stick-to-your-ribs soul food.
With an atmosphere
at once homey and culturally enriching, Amy Ruth’s décor boasts
Afrocentric artwork and a menu featuring dishes named after African
Americans of past and present significance. A typical day sees
everyone from churchgoers enjoying breakfast to local and
outer-borough businesspeople, artists, merchants, and Con Ed workers
a like enjoying lunch and dinner together.
If you’re looking
for the best of the best of Amy Ruth’s cuisine, your best bet is to
go straight for the waffle menu. Highly recommended is the Reverend
Al Sharpton ($9.50 a plate), an enticingly salty-sweet combination
of fried or smothered chicken over crisp, buttery waffles. Less
popular but still delicious is the Reverend Thomas Johnson ($13.95 a
plate), waffles with fried catfish. Those looking to satisfy their
sweet tooths can partake of the Guy Woods and Shay Barnett ($8.95 a
plate), waffles with cinnamon, fresh banana, and pecans, or the
Bishop Charles Reed ($8.95 a plate), waffles with sautéed apples.
And, of course, those looking for plain and simple can stick to the
Rev. Michael A. Walrond Jr. ($6.95 a plate), Amy Ruth’s original
waffles, which can be served a la mode for an extra $3 or simply
dressed up with 100% pure maple syrup.
For those who are
on high-protein diets (or who simply aren’t waffle fans), the Terry
Rivers ($13.95 a plate) southern honey-dipped fried chicken is a
juicy, greasy, flat-out delicious option, rivaling the equally
savory Stan Hoffman & Lu Willard ($13.95 a plate) bar-b-q spare
ribs. Seafood lovers would do well to order the Lewis H. Latimer
Progressive Association ($12.95 a plate) crispy, creamy salmon
croquettes or the Chrissa Chin ($16.95 a plate) bourbon-cured salmon
fillet with peach butter. Of course, don’t forget to pair any of
these entrees with such side dishes as baked macaroni and cheese,
Amy’s five-star mashed potatoes (from scratch!), and collard greens.
As its menu
attests, Amy Ruth’s isn’t much of a place for vegetarians. However,
those abstaining from meat and fish can still eat up at the Salad
Corner (that is, if plain waffles aren’t your thing). The Honorable
David Patterson ($9.95 a plate), a garden burger with tossed salad,
and the Joshua Bass ($11.95 a plate), vegetable lasagna with tossed
salad, are your best bets.
If you aren’t
already stuffed to the gills, Amy Ruth’s dessert menu is worth a
taste or three. In addition to the Ressie Mae Bass traditional
sweet potato pie, Amy Ruth’s also serves up the mouthwatering
Charmaine “Cake Diva” Jones rum de rum cake, the Neal Shoemaker
peach cobbler, and the Inez Bass red-velvet cake. Those looking for
something plainer and simpler but still traditionally southern can
satisfy themselves with the C. Virginia Fields country bread
pudding, which might even sway the most hardcore chocoholics, at
least temporarily.
Amy Ruth’s alcohol
policy is strictly BYOB, so if you’re looking for an eatery with a
well-stocked bar and/or the choicest Veuve Cliquot, you’ll have to
look elsewhere. Its size and popularity also make for a bit of a
wait at times, and reservations aren’t accepted except for parties
of 15 or more, so you’ll have to bite your tongue and paste a smile
on your face, particularly during lunch and dinner rush and “Jammin’
on the Mic” night, a live music show featured on the fourth Friday
of every month. However, Amy Ruth’s is available for private
dining, party space, and takeout.
Amy Ruth’s is open
from 7:30 am-11 pm Sundays through Thursdays and 24 hours Fridays
and Saturdays. Entrée prices range from $8.95-$18.95. Visa,
MasterCard, American Express, and Discover are all accepted.
113 W. 116th
Street
(between Lenox
Avenue and Adam Clayton Powell Boulevard)
New York, NY 10026
Phone: 212-280-8779
Subways: 2, 3 to
116th Street
----------
By Karla
Keffer:
Karla Keffer is a
freelance writer based in Astoria, NY. She is a graduate of Hobart
and William Smith Colleges and New York University. Her poems and
articles have appeared in Smartish Pace, Limozine, New York
Construction, and the All Stars Project's Quarterly E-Newsletter.
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